Converter X1 Problems

[Fishhook]

Owen,

I turned off the two power strips that control everything in the room the X1 is in. I tried using both, a 5V 3A AC/DC adapter and the gtmedia power supply. My RG6 coax is grounded through a coaxial grounding block on the ground wire for my antenna mast to the service ground rod n the outside of the house. There was no change with the scanning for the channels. I have ordered the cable to get power straight from my power strip.


Tom,

HDTVPlayer 2.35a, Release Date 01152025, SN 3018113094226154096

System Version Number: Y410.A11.1.4 App Version Number : 0.02.220224

Thanks Guys for all your Help! Rick ?

[Feralkiwi]

Owen,

I turned off the two power strips that control everything in the room the X1 is in. I tried using both, a 5V 3A AC/DC adapter and the gtmedia power supply. My RG6 coax is grounded through a coaxial grounding block on the ground wire for my antenna mast to the service ground rod n the outside of the house. There was no change with the scanning for the channels. I have ordered the cable to get power straight from my power strip.


Tom,

HDTVPlayer 2.35a, Release Date 01152025, SN 3018113094226154096

System Version Number: Y410.A11.1.4 App Version Number : 0.02.220224

Thanks Guys for all your Help! Rick ?

Is the antenna cable also grounded at the X1 end?

Many users have reported here that they have lost the HDMI port on GT media units.
Power spikes / lightning will use that path from the outside grounded dish / antenna to a remote ground point, the Tv and house power.
I had ground currents from an electric fence, clicking the screen on the TV by using the HDMI cable to ground on the TV and that ground current was corrupting the HDMI signals.
To stop any ground current I advise grounding the X1 end of the antenna cable as well, even if that is just a ground wire to the wall power ground if you have one.
All this because the GT Media units power supply is not grounded.

I still think it is worth a try.

Also many GT Media units have done better with bigger Amp power supplies, for those spikes / peaks in power use.
You say 3A, but can you try with a higher Amp power supply too.

Most GT Media units had 12V 1.5A supplies and the newer Android units had 12V 2A.
That is 18W and 24w.
The 5V 3A supply for the X1 is only 15W
When the processor is at max looking at your channels, that may cause drops in the voltage and results, like the other units have done over the years.
Some users have used a USB to USB cable to put more 5V supply into units, something to be careful about.

All just suggestions, one may help / work.

Owen

[CAJE]

Grounding an X1 protects against surges, reduces interference, prevents electric shocks, stabilizes the system, and ensures safety compliance. It improves safety and performance.

[tag875]

Rick, before you invest anymore money you should record the RF and send the file to GTMEDIA and have them view it. I don't know when they will be back from vacation. Maybe Alan from GTMEDIA can chime in.

[Fishhook]

Tom,

As Stated in a previous post: "I tried to do a TS record of RF32, It will not record if it does not have a saved station of which I have none for RF32. I was a little sketchy with understanding the program. Let me know if I did something indifferent.
Rick"
I am unsure as to how to accomplish this. As I understand the program I did not have a channel to scan, even though I had signal lock
Rick

[tag875]

I will test trying to record an RF not found to see if it possible.
Tom

[tag875]

As I see on my devices under the manual scan you place the orange box over the RF channel and leave it there. Then you use the remote and hit 999999 very fast to bring up the "Record Stream Information" . The hit the green button to select DVR storage. The red tuning needs to turn to green signal lock and then you can hit the red button to record and yellow button to stop the recording.

I would think you will get the green signal lock because your S/N is very good.

If this is not possible you need to contact Lynn at support@gtmedia.cc with an email to discuss your issue. I chat with him using Facebook Messenger but you need to friend him or Alan.

I still think they are on Holiday so I don't know when they will be back.
Tom

[tag875]

Rick,

Can you PM your email. I have a link to send you.
Tom

[Bennieb]

Back to the original question about using an antenna amplifier. With my antenna connected to the x1 it scanned 161 channels.
Some are weak gives me a bad picture, think because the transmitters are about 35 miles away.
Put a high quality antenna amp (Channel Master) on the antenna, now it scanned only 52 channels.
All of them the strength is green but many of them the quality is zero. I was expecting a better quality.
I have a smart TV and connected the antenna to the TV. Without amp it scanned in all 161 channels. The TV shows me some channels have a quality
of less than 50%. The TV uses % instead of Db. Now I connected the amp scanned again get all 161 channels and all channels are now 99 or 100%
This looks to me the way the X1 handle the tuner scanning is incorrect. I bought this X1 so I can cut the cable and use my new installed antenna and
the X1 for recording. What are you out there thinking about this X1?

[Feralkiwi]

You are now posting as user Bennieb.
Please what user did you start posting "Back to the original question".

This looks like the amp is not powered by the X1.
"Put a high quality antenna amp (Channel Master) on the antenna, now it scanned only 52 channels."

Questions:
How is the amp powered, via the cable from the TV / X1 or other power at the amp?

If the amp is powered via the cable, what voltage, 12V or 5V?

If the amp is powered via the cable, does the X1 do that?

Does the X1 work with the amp if you use a splitter and connect both the TV and the X1?

If the amp is powered at the amp, have you added extra ground wires at the X1? The X1 power supply is not grounded.

If the amp is powered at the amp, Try running an extension power cable to it from the same wall plug as the X1 / TV?

Do you have single or three phase power?
The amp may be on a different phase and the X1 power supply is not grounded.

Owen

[Bennieb]

Hi Owen, the original user who started the post was Saylav
The amp has his own power supply and the power is injected via a special box to the coax up to the antenna.
The signal is coming down to that box it seperates the power from the antenna signal and send it with a second coax to the X1
This is a pretty standard setup.
You mentioned something powered by the X1, think the X1 cannot add power to that coax cable.
The amp works on the X1 the signal strength goes from yellow to green, but the quality drops to zero.
In your reply looks like you are thinking about some noise with the signal.
What about my TV works fine with the amp, perfect picture quality.
Are you using an antenna with an amp? If yes you still have a good signal?
Bennie

[Feralkiwi]

OK

Quote.
"The amp has his own power supply and the power is injected via a special box to the coax up to the antenna.
The signal is coming down to that box it seperates the power from the antenna signal and send it with a second coax to the X1
This is a pretty standard setup."

Most standard splitter for signal have power pass on all outputs, so that any of the outputs can pass power up to the LNB or power amp.
If this "separation" in your system does allow for power to pass then IF the X1 is sending power up, that may be the problem.
Most GT Media units have a menu option in the DVB-T section for antenna power On / Off.
Check that, maybe being in the DVB-T section not the ATSC you have not seen it.
Most GT Media units send 5V, but for the USA market they may have done 12V??

Is this output on the Channel Master amp outputting power back to the X1?
Let me know what model Channel Master please?

If you have one, use a splitter with the correct UHF band (normally 5-2400 Hz for both UHF and Satellite or 5-900Hz for UHF only) that has one port with NO power pass, usually marked with red line for power pass and no red lines for no pass.
Then use the no power pass outlet for the X!.
that will block any power coming from the X1.

Question:
The outputs on the Channel Master amp, are they, if more than one, both the same?
Is one for VHF and the other for UHF frequencies?
I would think you use the exact same cable from the Channel Master amp to the TV that you then move to the X1, so that should not be the issue.

As the input on the X1 is a F connector and your TV is likely a PAL push on plug, what adaptor are you adding?
That is a difference, not the exact same cable from the amp to the TV as to the X1?

Owen

[tag875]

I am getting 107 channels with my X1 in Central Florida with a roof mounted antenna (a $50 GE purchase from Walmart, basically junk but works extremely well) . I removed my power injected antenna amplifier because it provided too much noise and over powering on many channels. I do use a channel master 8 port powered splitter to distribute to the rooms in my house because the coax run is very far from the antenna. I use the minimal amount of non powered splitters after the channel master as splitters degrade the signal. Do not use direct TV splitters as they work with incompatible frequency.

When you state good Signal strength but poor signal quality as displayed on the X1, signal quality is Signal to noise ratio. This is more important than signal strength to tune in the RF. You can read up on what S/N is required to tune in, but you need a minimum 15 dB S/N to tune in ATSC 3.0 and a higher S/N to tune in ATSC 1.0. Your issue is not with the X1 but is with your antenna, antenna location, or distribution of coax and splitters to the X1. Start by installing the X1 as close to the antenna as possible to see what your S/N is. Use Rabbitears.com or Antennaweb.org to set up your antenna direction to the broadcast towers. At 35 miles to the towers you will need a directional antenna on your roof or attic. A window flat antenna or small antenna will not make the grade.

[Bennieb]

Thanks for your replies, some more information. My antenna is a clear-stream 2V and the amp is a channel master CM-7778HD
On the amp I use the low amplification and both the VHF and UHF inputs.
I have used Google Earth for distance and direction. The antenna is the attic one level house.
The coax from antenna is about 10-12 feet and is a RG6 Quad Shield coax.
Without the amp my X1 signal to noise ratio was for many channels 18-27 db, what is pretty good.
The signal strength was in yellow what resulted in picture drops while watching TV.
So that is why I installed the amp together with the antenna. It improved my picture watching TV no dropouts anymore, but the X1 got worse.

Owen you mentioned something the X1 can send power up the coax. I can find nothing in setting about this.
The X1 came with a small paper just instructions how to install. That what they do these days. Looked at there website for a manual, nothing.
With a DVM I checked the antenna connector at the X1 has no power. The amp power supply connection box has three connections One for power in,
one for to antenna and one for to TV. On to TV I installed a splitter 5Mhz - 1Ghz no red lines. The X1 became better but not perfect.
At my previous place I had the same antenna with the same channel master amp the broadcast towers were 45 miles away.
I had a TIVO at that time and worked great with the amp. I still have the TIVO here, have no subscription anymore, but maybe TV works.
If the Tivo has no problems I still think there is something with the X1. Maybe I need a Yagi long range antenna for a stronger signal or another DVR
Will try the Tivo tomorrow will let you know. Any suggestions please are welcome.
Bennie

[Feralkiwi]

channel master CM-7778HD
https://www.channelmaster.com/products/ ... -cm-7778hd
Amplify+ is intended for outdoor professional use, including multi-dwelling units and commercial applications. The product provides separate UHF and VHF inputs for two-antenna, band-specific installations, as well as a switchable FM trap. (When installing a splitter with this amplifier it must be a power passing splitter, most common splitters will not pass power.)

This model does not show any DC power input??
I though you were saying it was powered at the amp?
All the google I find for that show the same unit.
Edited
I think you said earlier that there is a power inserter you add to the coax beside the amp?
I found another site that offer power input of 240v or 110V so there is something there, just these sites do not show it.



If this is the one you have, it does need power pass splitter and power from your TV via the coax to power it.
A splitter with power pass from the TV and no or yes power pass for then X1.


"The antenna is the attic one level house."
Your roof needs to be wood or concrete tiles for a in the attic antenna to work.
A shingle wood roof may have a layer of something that is blocking the signal a little.

If your antenna is out side, try moving it 500mm left or right, 500mm up down, 500mm forward or back.
You can try this in the attic too.
There can be standing waves that make high signal points and low signal points.
I had this some years ago with VHF TV from 278km away and the nodes for that were 3m apart in 3 dimensions.
This was I think caused by the hill I was on, but I did find a tree at a node point that was within the cable length I had.
I have seen the same thing with Cell Phone outside antennas for internet modems, those needs a move of only 150mm.

Another way to improve signal is to place a metal object behind the antenna to stop signal coming from behind it.
Here in NZ we have metal roofs, so the roof does this.

If you have a weak channel on the X1, turn that on and turn the volume up so you can here the TV while in the attic as you move the antenna.
If that is too far away use two phone as an audio link so you can still hear the TV, I have done that before I got satellite finders.

Let me know if that is not the Channel master model you have?

Owen

[tag875]

Hi Bennie,

Your Clear Stream V2 is a multi directional antenna which should work well enough if it is high and out side your house. If it is inside your house or attic you may be getting interference depending on the construction of the house and roof. As an example where I live my house is stucco meaning I have a wire mesh on my outside walls that will act as a faraday cage and block RF. My roof has aluminum foil on the roof boards, again blocking signal. So for me my antenna has to be mounted outside. Where is your antenna located?

First thing, have you upgraded the HDTV Player app to V2.35a or are you on the original V2.27? Upgrade to v2.35a first.

Have you tried the Clear Steam Antenna with out the channel master powered amp with the X1 on ATSC 3.0 RFs? If so what is the S/N results with and without the powered amp? What RFs are your ATSC 3.0 broadcast on? VHF or UHF?

Your TV tuner is not identical to the X1 tuner. Modifications that improve the TV tuner can negatively impact the X1 tuner. This is why we have to test to determine what is best.

I would try a direct connection from the antenna to the X1 without the amp and then with the amp. Measure the S/N in dB with the X1. If it works then install that splitter and see what is does. I am using a 5-2500 MHz splitter.

Tom

[Bennieb]

Hi Tom, Problem is fixed. The short coax cable from the antenna to the channel master amp I noticed the cable was loose inside the connector.
So no good contact with the shield.
What got me was that the TV had no problems with this. Here are some results.
Scan with no amp gives me 152 channels
Scan with power amp gives me 169 channels.
RF channel 31 Strength S/N
No Power -52 28 db
With power -32 29 db
With splitter -35 29 db
We loose 3db with the spitter and that is correct.
Yes my antenna is a multi directional, but it is a coil so only front and back
Before I lived north of San Diego and there are two broadcast towers one west and one east of town.
Also more south is Mexico and from my location was 52 miles. I tested several antennas but the clear view was the only to pull in
the Mexican channels. Yes I had it outside , even it is multi directional I had to aim it.
Here my roof is wood so it works great in the attic.

Yesterday I made a recoding. When I play this it tells me at the bottom of the TV now playing.....
But didn't appear on the screen. You know how to do this?
Have you ever found a manual online? I hate spending hours playing to find out how to do.
Anyway thanks for all your suggestions.
Bennie

[tag875]

Bennie.
To help I need to know what version of HDTV Player you are using and if you have updated the firmware to v 4. You will find a app called update in the GTSTORE.

Tom

[Bennieb]

Hi Tom, yes I have version 4, but I figured it out already.
Thanks for all your suggestions.

[Fishhook]

No ATSC 3.0 issue has been resolved. I read a note in another forum where someone picked up some of his 3.0 stations while is wifi was off. I turned my wifi off, then went to channel scan of RF 32 and it automatically showed my 5 missing 3.0 channels. So in retrospect, the power supplies, distribution amplifier concerns of my antenna, possible ground issues had no effect. Thank you everybody for trying to help me. So I have now turned my wifi back on and it now the ATSC 3.0 now gives me video with DRM encrypted.
While I now have good video, I do have a problem with Lip sync. It works well when the station is first turned on but degrades the longer the station is on. This is ATSC 3.0 only not ATSC 1.0. Are there any solutions for this issue? Thanks Rick

[Feralkiwi]

No ATSC 3.0 issue has been resolved. I read a note in another forum where someone picked up some of his 3.0 stations while is wifi was off. I turned my wifi off, then went to channel scan of RF 32 and it automatically showed my 5 missing 3.0 channels. So in retrospect, the power supplies, distribution amplifier concerns of my antenna, possible ground issues had no effect. Thank you everybody for trying to help me. So I have now turned my wifi back on and it now the ATSC 3.0 now gives me video with DRM encrypted.
While I now have good video, I do have a problem with Lip sync. It works well when the station is first turned on but degrades the longer the station is on. This is ATSC 3.0 only not ATSC 1.0. Are there any solutions for this issue? Thanks Rick

Please, which WIFI do you turn off?

Your house WIFI or just the WIFI in the X1?
If WIFI in the X1, does it work with cable connected and the WIFI off in the X1?

Owen

[Fishhook]

Owen
Hi Owen, I turn off the wifi on the X1 - Home/Wifi symbol top right n the corner takes me to Network and Internet - I slide the wifi switch to off. The box face turns red. After the channels came up, I went back and turned it back on. My channels continue to work. When I select a DRM channel, I see a notation "Signature Verified" Rick

[Feralkiwi]

Thanks

Then this looks like the software is trying to use the DRM as it scans, or the wifi signal inside the box is interfering with the scan signals.
If cable net is connected and it still does not scan, then it is the DRM attempt while scanning is the issue.

If it is WIFI inside the box interfering, then finding a external antenna for the WIFI would help.
I have seen many of the GT Media boxes have a very small coax type connector for the WIFI antenna on the circuit board.
A longer cable extension or short length cable adaptor to the normal size 90mm long WIFI screw on antenna would work.
I have seen STB's with screw on external WIFI antennas. Make sense.

Owen

[Fishhook]

Owen,
I do not have cable available at the box and never did. I probably set up the wifi before I did a channel scan.
Rick

[Fishhook]

Are lip sync issues user fixable or does it require software or hardware changes to the GTMedia X1. The problem only comes up on the ATSC 3.0 channels. ATSC 1.0 channels are fine. It seems like it is pretty common with Next gen systems.